In the port of Amsterdam, the sailors sing, but that's not all. The city's most famous port now welcomes a mix of seafarers and landlubbers alike, and has reinvented itself in a most unexpected way. Near the charmless containers, the old warehouses, immediately identifiable with their brick walls, are still there. But they are now full of artists' workshops, chic restaurants and theatres. You can also walk or cycle along the quayside to get to Artis, the biggest zoo in the city. Still the best way, for sailors, to travel without leaving the port and the bleak shoreline, and the languor of the sea.